Chat Transcript - 6/02/2002 provided by PatternReview.com

Deepika: hello everyone. Peggy is going to join us shortly

[6/2/02 21:02:50] peggysagers: Hello,

[6/2/02 21:03:06] Deepika: Hi Peggy.

[6/2/02 21:03:29] peggysagers: According to this time, I am late

[6/2/02 21:03:33] Deepika: should we start with the questions I emailed you peggy? I myself have lots of questions for you.

[6/2/02 21:04:44] Deepika: After bagging the lining, I have problems tacking down the two remaining corners at the hem and facing. They usually bunch and wrinkle the jacket. Do you have any advice?

[6/2/02 21:05:34] peggysagers: Yes, the facing should lay flat without any seams turned under

[6/2/02 21:06:07] peggysagers: the lining should be hemmed and shorter and the facing edge that is showing, should be serged or finished.

[6/2/02 21:06:46] peggysagers: There are several ways to do it, but I would suggest not bagging the lining.

[6/2/02 21:07:07] peggysagers: If you bag the lining, the jacket has to be just perfect

[6/2/02 21:07:31] peggysagers: I am not perfect, nor are my jackets and I don't want to know that at the end.

[6/2/02 21:07:42] peggysagers: but that is obviously up to all of you

[6/2/02 21:07:57] peggysagers: I do bag my sleeve hems, that is very easy.

[6/2/02 21:07:45] Deepika: Peggy I have never sewn a jacket before. I simply loved the jacket you wore in the expo we met. Considering the fact that I have no experience with jackets what should I look for in a pattern when I do decide to make one.

[6/2/02 21:08:24] peggysagers: Well, it depends on if you want fit or no fit.

[6/2/02 21:08:44] peggysagers: No fit, you really dont have to look for a lot

[6/2/02 21:09:02] Deepika: little bit of fit

[6/2/02 21:09:04] peggysagers: But if you want fit, then you should look for dart and dart placement

[6/2/02 21:09:37] peggysagers: There should be two darts to accomodate the bust, and then some way to curve in for the waist.

[6/2/02 21:10:00] peggysagers: You should watch for armhole size and sleeve circumference

[6/2/02 21:10:24] peggysagers: I love jackets, but I remember a time when I was very intimidated by them

[6/2/02 21:10:39] peggysagers: They are very simple, just step by step

[6/2/02 21:11:02] peggysagers: they should have a center back seam

[6/2/02 21:10:40] Deepika: should I get a pattern especially designed for petites then?

[6/2/02 21:11:41] peggysagers: you don't need a pattern designed for petites, just shorten an existing pattern that you like

[6/2/02 21:10:49] Andi: What do you mean "2"darts for the bust...the one at the side seam and the other ???

[6/2/02 21:12:06] peggysagers: There should be two darts somewhere in the upper bodice

[6/2/02 21:12:35] peggysagers: Under the lapel and the waist dart are the two we use alot

[6/2/02 21:12:31] Deepika: oh you mean horizontal bust darts?

[6/2/02 21:13:12] peggysagers: Well, they don't have to be horizontal, they are usually moved to give the effect of a dart but without being horizontal

[6/2/02 21:13:50] peggysagers: If they are horizontal everyone sees them, if they are under a lapel, they do the same thing, but no one can see them

[6/2/02 21:14:03] peggysagers: That's the goal in great design

[6/2/02 21:13:46] Andi: would you include princess line bodice, since that is like a dart?

[6/2/02 21:14:37] peggysagers: Princess line is a dart, it is the horizontal dart moved up to the armhole or shoulder

[6/2/02 21:16:43] WandaJ: What do you believe are the key elements of making a 'good' fitting jacket?

[6/2/02 21:18:36] peggysagers: A good fitting jacket consists of length, depth and circumference that match me, to include the amount of ease I like to be able to move the amount I like to.

[6/2/02 21:14:11] Deepika: what type of lining fabric would you recommend if I am making a jacket from linen or other cotton fabric.

[6/2/02 21:15:24] peggysagers: I have no recommendations on lining. It needs to slip, that is the purpose and to make it look good cosmetically. Other than that, it does not matter.

[6/2/02 21:15:45] peggysagers: Your budget and your personality decide what goes inside for lining

[6/2/02 21:16:32] peggysagers: I do recommend some simple things when sewing a jacket.

[6/2/02 21:16:05] sarahsews: What fabrics are the easiest for a beginner to make a jacket from?

[6/2/02 21:16:50] peggysagers: easy fabrics would include wool of any weight

[6/2/02 21:17:27] peggysagers: Silk, non slip types, such as raw silk.

[6/2/02 21:17:44] peggysagers: I would never use poly, no matter how desperate I was

[6/2/02 21:17:52] peggysagers: Poly is bad for a jacket

[6/2/02 21:18:18] Deepika: is that lining fabric you are talking about?

[6/2/02 21:19:09] peggysagers: I don't care if you use poly for a lining, but not for the outer shell. I hate poly for the outside shell.

[6/2/02 21:19:48] ArleneBurns: Right on, Peggy

[6/2/02 21:20:10] peggysagers: If you want to economize, use linen or cotton, just not poly, I don't think that is my personality, it is from working with them. They just don't steam, they melt.

[6/2/02 21:20:30] Andi: You don't like it b/c you cant press/shape it?

[6/2/02 21:20:36] sarahsews: Do you recommend using sew-in or fusible interfacings?

[6/2/02 21:20:40] WandaJ: Peggy, I'm so glad that someone else, particularly, of your calibar is saying "I hate poly..." I do too and cannot understand why we are seeing more of it.

[6/2/02 21:23:24] peggysagers: You see poly in the marketplace because it is inexpensive, and lots of uneducated people buy it.

[6/2/02 21:21:08] Debbie: Wool or Raw silk are great jacket shells. If I am going to all the work of fitting and making a jacket I want it to be great looking

[6/2/02 21:20:53] Deepika: but if I use cotton for lining its not going to slip like the lining should.

[6/2/02 21:21:30] peggysagers: that's right, it doesn't take on the personality of the new jacket, it stays flat.

[6/2/02 21:21:55] peggysagers: I only use fusible interfacings, besides tie interfacing, that is a sew in to the sleeve

[6/2/02 21:22:08] WandaJ: Try Ambiance for the lining. It breathes and is a very reasonable price and, it slips on nicely.

[6/2/02 21:22:30] peggysagers: There are a million beautiful wools out there, that can be worn year round.

[6/2/02 21:23:00] peggysagers: They are light and wonderful to work with.

[6/2/02 21:23:00] Andi: How do you feel about lycra blends for jackets?

[6/2/02 21:23:49] peggysagers: Lycra blends are great and you are seeing them everywhere

[6/2/02 21:24:30] peggysagers: I buy fabric from New York and alot of it has lycra blends in it or it is woven to stretch a little

[6/2/02 21:23:00] Carrie: Can you say more about the tie interfacing?

[6/2/02 21:23:01] WandaJ: Please tell us more about tie interfacting that is a sew in to the sleeve; especially the later part.

[6/2/02 21:25:12] peggysagers: The tie interfacing replaces the two rows of basting that many sewers do to the sleeve before setting it in.

[6/2/02 21:26:01] peggysagers: Basically, you take a bias piece of tie interfacing, and pull it as you baste from notch to notch around the sleeve cap

[6/2/02 21:26:39] WandaJ: Does the tie interfacing go just into the sleeve head or cap or does it go the length and circumference of the whole sleeve.?

[6/2/02 21:26:58] peggysagers: You baste on the stitch line as you are pulling the tie interfacing. Once you have stitched from notch to notch, then release the bias, the sleeve cap is eased up. NO gathers, just eased.

[6/2/02 21:27:00] WandaJ: Ok. You have answered my question.

[6/2/02 21:27:13] peggysagers: Then the tie interfacing becomes the sleeve head.

[6/2/02 21:27:35] Debbie: What a great tip. I have all of your patterns is that technique in the patterns.

[6/2/02 21:25:39] Rayann: Peggy, is there any fabric that would make a knock-out suit jacket for summer, and not require a lining but still look great?

[6/2/02 21:28:06] peggysagers: I just made several new suits for summer and I think I would line everything/ I just like lining and I like the way it holds the facings in place.

[6/2/02 21:28:12] ArleneBurns: I like that! This is a great tip. Thank you.

[6/2/02 21:28:15] WandaJ: What is the depth of the bias strip and is it a single layer or double?

[6/2/02 21:28:47] Rayann: Any suggestion where to purchase tie interfacing in an area where we don't have good fabric stores?

[6/2/02 21:29:13] peggysagers: That method is in our patterns, once you do it, you would not do anything else, it is so very easy. The sleeve looks terrific. It is also in the video Tips and Techniques, many have that.

[6/2/02 21:29:55] ArleneBurns: I'm quickly become a disciple, Peggy

[6/2/02 21:30:06] peggysagers: the bias strip should be about 20" long and 1" wide. Single layer until you press out the seams into the sleeve after setting in the sleeve, then it becomes double layer.

[6/2/02 21:30:41] peggysagers: When sewing in the sleeve, the sleeve should be down against the machine, it is bigger and the feed dog will help pull it through

[6/2/02 21:31:25] peggysagers: Where to purchase, I don't know, but I carry it for that reason, if people have a hard time finding it, check the joanns' of the world. I am not sure

[6/2/02 21:30:31] WandaJ: How do you feel about using shoulder pads with a built in cap? I used them once and absolutely would love to use them again for all set-in sleeves.

[6/2/02 21:32:03] peggysagers: I don't care for the built in cap, but that is just a personal taste, I like the straight edge better, If you like the look, I would stick with it.

[6/2/02 21:32:28] WandaJ: The Joann's near me carries it so the others may to it's one of the Armo products.

[6/2/02 21:33:11] peggysagers: If you are using a nice fabric, the armo is kinda cheap in quality, but will work

[6/2/02 21:33:21] Rayann: I'd forgotten the tie interfacing is on your order blank. Thanks. Will just order from you.

[6/2/02 21:33:40] WandaJ: I liked the built in cap because with the sleeve top there is no drop whatsoever.

[6/2/02 21:32:46] Carrie: I've been dreaming of your "Armani" style jacket since seeing it at an expo. Is it a very difficult pattern?

[6/2/02 21:34:14] peggysagers: No , the armani jacket is very easy to construct, no set in sleeves no notch lapel, we did it just for those who are intimidated by the normal jacket, we thought this would be a good go between

[6/2/02 21:34:39] Deepika: which pattern is this?

[6/2/02 21:35:07] peggysagers: #1600 Betsy's jacket

[6/2/02 21:34:47] peggysagers: What do you mean with the sleeve top, there is no drop?

[6/2/02 21:35:44] WandaJ: I mean where the seam of the sleeve is connected to the shoulder. I've often had this portion to droop even with a cap and sleeve head.

[6/2/02 21:35:55] peggysagers: A customer in Phoenix, loaned me her G. Armani jacket and we sorta duplicated it real close

[6/2/02 21:35:07] Deepika: Another questions from one of our members: I'm in the market for a new iron for my sewing room. What features work best with your methods? Do you prefer a steam generator or gravity feed iron? Any particular brands?

[6/2/02 21:36:28] peggysagers: I use a rowenta steam generator and I absolutely love it.

[6/2/02 21:37:45] peggysagers: I was given this to use by Rowenta and left it in the box for six months becuase I didn't have time to read the directions, what a mistake, Ilove that thing!!!! My product is much better because of it. I take it to all my week long seminars.

[6/2/02 21:39:45] peggysagers: I don't think the brand matters, steam is what matters

[6/2/02 21:36:41] Rayann: Anyone else tried the shoulder pad with built-in cap? I haven't heard of it?

[6/2/02 21:39:12] peggysagers: If the sleeve is too wide, it would probably look better to narrow the sleeve. If you measure your favorite jacket or one at the store that you like, from shoulder seam to shoulder seam to find out the width you like, then you can duplicate it on your pattern

[6/2/02 21:40:18] WandaJ: Thanks. I recently made a jacket that I just love the fit. I will go back and get measurements from it.

[6/2/02 21:40:53] peggysagers: Measure the width of the shoulders, the size of the armhole, the circumference of the sleeve, etc.

[6/2/02 21:41:17] peggysagers: Those are key fitting points that people don't realize.

[6/2/02 21:41:32] peggysagers: Center back seam gives mobility.

[6/2/02 21:41:41] WandaJ: Back to darts. Is there another method to get a good fit through the chest and bust area other than adding a dart for full-busted women?

[6/2/02 21:42:00] peggysagers: Hum, like what

[6/2/02 21:42:17] peggysagers: Darts can be converted to yolks

[6/2/02 21:42:35] peggysagers: You can do gathers, but I would not do jackets with gathers

[6/2/02 21:42:51] peggysagers: I am just wondering if you have something in mind?

[6/2/02 21:43:14] peggysagers: The advantage of darts is that they fit and lay smooth and look great

[6/2/02 21:43:31] peggysagers: They change the angles of the garment as our bodies change

[6/2/02 21:44:26] peggysagers: Darts are great, the bigger the bust, the more you need them

[6/2/02 21:44:45] ArleneBurns: Darts were always included in almost every garment before mass manufacturing took them away.

[6/2/02 21:44:11] Carrie: How would you solve fitting a tight upper back?

[6/2/02 21:45:19] peggysagers: The center back seam should not be straight. If you look at expensive jackets, the center back seam goes out at the fullness of the back, to give mobility

[6/2/02 21:45:10] Ann: Peggy, how far away can you let a dart end from a prominent point, ie the bust, without having "arrows" point to the largest part of the body?

[6/2/02 21:45:55] peggysagers: A fitting dart has to be within two inches of the bust point

[6/2/02 21:46:44] Ann: I think I read darts end about an inch from the bust, but how much can you back them off without losing their wonderful fitting effect?

[6/2/02 21:47:01] nanflan: Peggy, could you provide some more detail about the under the lapel dart?

[6/2/02 21:47:08] Ann: Thanks!

[6/2/02 21:47:11] peggysagers: That is quite a ways away. but sew darts from the point , that is where people will see them.

[6/2/02 21:46:37] WandaJ: For a better fit if one is using a pattern without a center back seam would you say it is ok to add one before cutting?

[6/2/02 21:47:35] peggysagers: I would definately add a center back seam.

[6/2/02 21:48:21] Ann: Sorry, how do you sew "from the point"?

[6/2/02 21:48:22] peggysagers: Again, by rules of pattern making, the fitting dart has to extend to the bust circle, the bust circle is a circle that is a 2" radius around the bust point

[6/2/02 21:48:49] peggysagers: It's ok, but not necessary

[6/2/02 21:49:33] Ann: OK, I thought it was construction advise, this is still pattern work.

[6/2/02 21:47:55] Rayann: Peggy, I have several jackets that fit perfectly and are comfortable, but just the bottom inch of the back of every one appears to cup in slightly under my rather flat rear. Why?

[6/2/02 21:49:54] peggysagers: Rayann, look at the side panel and see if it is shaped smaller at the hem than at the hipline. It is more flattering to shape the bottom of the jacket to come in a little at the hem

[6/2/02 21:50:55] peggysagers: Start at the point of the dart, it is the most important, people will see it, they don't see the end, it is in the seam. The point is more important to have correct

[6/2/02 21:51:17] WandaJ: What's the standard " to come in at the hem line?

[6/2/02 21:52:03] Rayann: Yes, they are all shaped in slightly from the hipline. Does that mean no way to solve the back cupping, or is that okay?

[6/2/02 21:52:52] peggysagers: The dart under the lapel is the bust dart, moved up to the corner of the neck edge, comes down toward the bust, but styled so that it is under the lapel, so that when the lapel folds back, it cannot be seen.

[6/2/02 21:53:02] Debbie: Peggy Do I understand that we should start sewing at the dart point and not at the seam line.

[6/2/02 21:53:31] peggysagers: Just drop the pattern pieces down straight. or just the back pattern pieces and then it will not come in

[6/2/02 21:53:44] WandaJ: What are the most important things that you wuld like to leave with us this evening?

[6/2/02 21:56:34] Rayann: Peggy, getting a little off track, but can you say briefly the method you prefer to transfer information from a sloper to a pattern or fabric?

[6/2/02 21:57:21] Debbie: Please where should the sleeve hem end on your hand or wrist

[6/2/02 21:58:40] Rayann: Does your new book include instructions on using slopers? I have one made in one of your classes but still not totally confident about using it.

[6/2/02 21:56:26] WandaJ: If one adds a dart under the lapel does that mean that the regualar bust dart should be eliminated or use both darts?

[6/2/02 22:00:59] pegsagers: The lapel dart should be the bust dart, should not have both

[6/2/02 22:02:38] WandaJ: Do you prefer the lapel or bust dart?

[6/2/02 22:04:26] pegsagers: The lapel dart, you cant' see it

[6/2/02 22:04:54] LindaE: I am going to go thanks for the great topic good work deepika.. I will check out the transcript tomorrow

[6/2/02 22:04:56] pegsagers: The sleeve should just hit the top of your hand if you flip your wrist up

[6/2/02 22:05:24] Deepika: thanks to peggy for providing such useful information

[6/2/02 22:05:45] pegsagers: I would like you all to know, don't not do somthing because you are afraid, just watch for a better way to do it than what you know.

[6/2/02 22:05:52] LindaE: thanks peggy you are a wealth of information

[6/2/02 22:06:26] Debbie: Thank You I had always been told it had ot hit the point where my thumb connects to my hand and that is just toooooo long and feels sloopy

[6/2/02 22:06:31] pegsagers: There are so many great easy ways of doing things, we just have to keep our eyes and ears open and I think this patternreview is great.

[6/2/02 22:06:54] WandaJ: Thanks for the tip regarding getting over the fear of doing something. I understand the fear of 'cutting and sewing' because fabric is not hair and doesn't grow back!

[6/2/02 22:07:16] Ann: Thank you for the info, you always have such great ideas to share. I'll have to try "reverse dart sewing" on my next garment.

[6/2/02 22:07:44] Carrie: Thanks so much Peggy. I'm rushing for the Betsy's jacket pattern!

[6/2/02 22:07:48] pegsagers: Good luck to all of you, I wish you success. Keep sewing, I love it. Thanks Deepika

[6/2/02 22:08:18] Debbie: Thanks Peggy I hope you come to Kansas City again

[6/2/02 22:08:46] Rayann: Thanks, Peggy. You've been great as always. Look forward to getting your new book, and to next time you're in my area again!

[6/2/02 22:09:26] Debbie: Please give the name of her new book I was late

[6/2/02 22:12:02] Debbie: Night all and thanks again for such useful information

[6/2/02 22:12:27] Rayann: The new book is "Dressed to Kill.. .Gently". See www.silhouettepatterns.com. There's an order form on there. I just ordered it a couple of days ago. It's $14.95 right now, not sure about in the future. I believe this is a new, updated version of her "My Very Best Dressed Me".

[6/2/02 22:14:04] WandaJ: Thanks. As is becoming customary, I enjoyed the Chat and valuable information. Deepika you are a jewel.

[6/2/02 22:15:28] Deepika: I am just glad that this chat is helping so many people!

[6/2/02 22:15:47] Ann: Goodnight all, Deepika, a great job yet again! Thanks ever so much!

[6/2/02 22:16:16] Deepika: if anyone has any suggestions for future chat topics, e-mail me at support@patternreview.com

[6/2/02 22:16:36] Deepika: good night everyone. Have a great week!

[6/2/02 22:17:13] Rayann: Deepika, Even after having the opportunity to take classes from Peggy and others, it's not always easy to "get" everything, and these chats help. :Thanks so much.

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