Topic of discussion
: Interfacing and Stabilizers
with Peggy Sagers
Chat Transcript
- 7/07/2002 provided by PatternReview.com
[7/7/02 20:50:16] Deepika:
Hello everyone
[7/7/02 21:01:19] Deepika:
how is everyone doing?
[7/7/02 21:02:45] nanflan:
Great! I have been doing some career wardrobe sewing this weekend, and
got 2 skirts made.
[7/7/02 21:07:19] peggysagers:
I am here
[7/7/02 21:07:56] Deepika:
Everyone please welcome Peggy Sagers!
[7/7/02 21:08:10] peggysagers:
we are talking about interfacing, yes?
[7/7/02 21:08:11] Wanda: Welcome
[7/7/02 21:08:15] Carrie: Glad
to see you again, Peggy!
[7/7/02 21:08:27] Ann: Hello,
it is good to meet you again.
[7/7/02 21:09:24] peggysagers:
thanks for being here and hope you learn some things that will really
help you.
[7/7/02 21:10:48] Deepika:
ready to start the Q&A session Peggy?
[7/7/02 21:11:00] peggysagers:
I would like to start with getting an agreement with what interfacing
is used for
[7/7/02 21:20:37] pegsagers:
ok, interfacing is used to change the natural hand the fabric has naturally
[7/7/02 21:21:27] pegsagers:
because fabric used for one garment has different uses, then interfacing
is used to change the fabric behavior
[7/7/02 21:21:47] pegsagers:
that is a pretty simple definition
[7/7/02 21:22:15] pegsagers:
so let's build from there
[7/7/02 21:22:56] Wanda: Is
it used in areas other than collars, facings, cuffs, and hems, i.e., throughout
the garment like underlining?
[7/7/02 21:23:13] pegsagers:
inter is used on parts of a garment or the whole thing or none at all
[7/7/02 21:22:32] Deepika:
can you explain the types of interfacings?
[7/7/02 21:24:17] pegsagers:
there are bascially two types of interfacing, woven and non woven or what
most of us know as pellon types
[7/7/02 21:24:58] Wanda: Please
give some examples of the type of garment when inter is used throughout.
[7/7/02 21:24:41] Carrie2:
I get confused with "interfacing" "underlining" and "interlining"
[7/7/02 21:24:59] pegsagers:
in Modern day clothing the inter is being used as an underlining, this
is very common
[7/7/02 21:25:11] pegsagers:
I think you would be surprised how many garments use no interfacing at
all
[7/7/02 21:26:03] pegsagers:
there is not an interlining or at least in the garment world, there is
not a phrase called interlining. just underlining and interfacing.
[7/7/02 21:26:22] pegsagers:
write them down if you need to to keep them straight.
[7/7/02 21:26:07] Wanda: No,
I would not. I look at the inside of RTW clothing and I just go, 'umph!'
[7/7/02 21:26:36] mudcat2:
I haven't used any interfacing in at least two years for my garments
[7/7/02 21:26:52] pegsagers:
lining is another term we can talk about, but first why I use interfacing
all over the fabric
[7/7/02 21:24:58] Rayann: Can
you give an example of when and why you would use on an entire garment?
[7/7/02 21:28:42] pegsagers:
There are three reasons why I would interface the entire garment. 1, to
retard wrinkling, 2. to stabilize the fibers and keep them from shifting,
and 3. to add body, if I am trying to use my fabric for something it is
not naturally intended to be;
[7/7/02 21:29:26] nanflan2:
Peggy, mainly for tailored garments
[7/7/02 21:29:56] pegsagers:
I would use interfacing in the whole jacket, if I were using raw silk
becuase raw silk grows and the elbows might bag if I didn't stabilize
[7/7/02 21:30:21] Wanda: Do
you consider Silk Organza as an interfacing.
[7/7/02 21:28:49] Deepika:
what are the parts of a garment which absolutely require an interfacing.
Waistbands of pants comes to mind...
[7/7/02 21:30:21] pegsagers:
I have many pants without interfacing inthe waistband
[7/7/02 21:30:41] pegsagers:
In fact, I don't ever put interfacing in the waistband.
[7/7/02 21:31:24] Wanda: How
do you stabilize the waistband?
[7/7/02 21:31:27] pegsagers:
Tailoring is a method of construction, not a definition of style as many
people use the term
[7/7/02 21:31:25] nanflan2:
How do you prevent the waistband from collapsing then?
[7/7/02 21:32:15] pegsagers:
If the waistband collapses, I have a fit problem, I would fix the fit,
not but cardboard around my waist.
[7/7/02 21:31:51] Deepika:
but then Peggy that must depent a lot on the fabric also. Like it may
work in heavy wt twill but can you have a pant in rayon twill whose waistband
is not interfaced?
[7/7/02 21:33:14] pegsagers:
what rule says I can't
[7/7/02 21:32:28] pegsagers:
why does the waistband collapse?
[7/7/02 21:33:26] mudcat2:
I was just thinking...if it collapses it's probably too tight. I never
could understand pattern instructions that said to interface the entire
waistband and then fold it (I'd only do half of it)
[7/7/02 21:33:29] pegsagers:
only you're habits prevent you
[7/7/02 21:34:00] Deepika:
hmmm. I gotta try one then... so far I have only used very light weight
interfacing and that does not make the waistband like cardboard but gives
slight support.
[7/7/02 21:33:58] pegsagers:
If my waistband was too wide , I would make it thinner
[7/7/02 21:34:26] pegsagers:
we are victims of habit and not thinking and we trust too many others
on this subject
[7/7/02 21:34:46] Rayann: Some
collapse because everyone doesn't have your nice slim figure, regardless
of fit.
[7/7/02 21:38:53] pegsagers:
again, please think about it, is good fit, related to the size of the
individual? Please think about this and don't cop out because someone
is thin.
[7/7/02 21:35:03] pegsagers:
If you like interfacing in your waistband, I would say continue, I don't
like the feel. It is too stiff
[7/7/02 21:35:19] nanflan2:
Good question, I'm not sure. However, my waist curve goes in from the
chest and out to the hips over a short span. I have better luck with a
very narrow waistband or faced waist. But sometimes I would like a regular
waistband for style purposes.
[7/7/02 21:35:31] pegsagers:
I can get my waistband to hold nice, without interfacing
[7/7/02 21:36:17] pegsagers:
it is my belief, the collapse always because of fit, the cardboard interfacing
will not stop that
[7/7/02 21:36:00] Deepika:
1. I am getting back into garment sewing after many years of quilting.
I would like to buy all the interfacing I would need for pants,top and
jacket patterns so it would be on hand--no last minute dashes to the fabric
store. What would you recommend I keep "in stock"?
[7/7/02 21:37:11] pegsagers:
Most manufactures only stock two interfacings, tricot knit in white and
tricot knit in black
[7/7/02 21:37:44] pegsagers:
Can you imagine companies stocking all those interfacings that are made
[7/7/02 21:37:56] pegsagers:
it is crazy
[7/7/02 21:38:34] AmandaL:
There seem to be so many kinds of interfacing, it seems like you need
a different one for each fabric.
[7/7/02 21:38:39] Wanda: Do
you too prefer the Tricot Knit with all types of fabric; particularly,
natural fabrics?
[7/7/02 21:40:42] AmandaL:
Please demystify! Do we need to buy them all?
[7/7/02 21:41:02] pegsagers:
But keep in simple, why do you need interfacing and how can you need so
many different kinds?
[7/7/02 21:41:11] pegsagers:
think this through
[7/7/02 21:41:29] pegsagers:
don't let anyone tell you what is not common sense, including me
[7/7/02 21:41:17] Carol: In
the current issue of Threads (just received yesterday) there is an article
about Silk Dupionni and I think it said not to use a fusible interfacing.
What would you recommend, Peggy?
[7/7/02 21:42:17] pegsagers:
Silk dupionni is a high maintence fabric.
[7/7/02 21:43:06] pegsagers:
I would not use any interfacing, but then I would not try to do a garment
that would conflict with the properties of silk dup.
[7/7/02 21:43:37] pegsagers:
I made an outfit a little while ago from silk and I made a blouse and
pants, no interfacing
[7/7/02 21:44:17] Deepika:
underlining or lining seems a better option.
[7/7/02 21:47:19] pegsagers:
underlining and lining are two different things completely
[7/7/02 21:47:38] pegsagers:
lining is cosmetic, underlining changes the hand of the fabric
[7/7/02 21:44:47] pegsagers:
do not buy all the interfacings, that would be confusing. do you buy all
brands of cereal or just the ones that are good or fit your needs?
[7/7/02 21:44:37] Wanda: Please
provide examples of the types of garments and I'm adding fabric that you
would use interfacing throughout.
[7/7/02 21:45:30] pegsagers:
fabrics that I would completely fuse are
[7/7/02 21:45:55] pegsagers:
raw silk
[7/7/02 21:46:15] pegsagers:
rayon made into a jacket, but not for a skirt
[7/7/02 21:46:35] pegsagers:
it is not just types of fabrics, it is what I intend to do with them
[7/7/02 21:46:47] Wanda: Are
you opposed to sew-in interfacing?
[7/7/02 21:48:00] pegsagers:
I personally never sew in any interfacing
[7/7/02 21:48:12] pegsagers:
the fusibles are too good and save too much time
[7/7/02 21:48:45] pegsagers:
I made a jacket from corduroy and fused the entire jacket, because I did
not want the wrinkling that corduroy usually gives
[7/7/02 21:49:24] pegsagers:
I made a rayon blouse and fused the whole thing because it was sheer and
I did not want you to see through it. so I fused so that you could not
see through
[7/7/02 21:48:36] Deepika:
Peggy I find sometimes that no matter how carefully I try to fuse the
interfacing it bubbles...
[7/7/02 21:50:03] pegsagers:
bubbling is bad quality interfacing, when you buy your interfacing, write
down where you bought it. Cheap is not always good, you all know that.
[7/7/02 21:50:21] pegsagers:
Keep notes, when you find a good source , go back
[7/7/02 21:50:28] Deepika:
I generally buy the interfacing from Joann stores. it comes in bolts
[7/7/02 21:50:39] pegsagers:
I am amazed at what I see and how bad it is
[7/7/02 21:50:45] pegsagers:
keep notes
[7/7/02 21:49:40] mudcat2:
Are the garments you are fusing lined? I don't think I'd care to have
the interfacing against my skin.
[7/7/02 21:51:02] pegsagers:
Some of the garments are lined, some are not.
[7/7/02 21:51:23] pegsagers:
I fused a blouse and then left it. I use a knit and it is very soft
[7/7/02 21:51:36] pegsagers:
Does not have to be lined
[7/7/02 21:51:46] Ann2: Please,
I recently bought a big batch and it melts under a warm iron. A big mess,
and lots of interfacing lost to the trash.
[7/7/02 21:52:29] pegsagers:
I only use a tricot knit, I use a knit because if you use a fusible woven
and are fusing that to a woven it gets too stiff. I like a soft look and
so I use the fusilbe knit
[7/7/02 21:52:41] Ann2: How
can you determine at the store what is quality Interfacing, and what to
avoid?
[7/7/02 21:52:55] pegsagers:
I made a linen skirt and fused the whole thing so that it would not wrinkle
as badly
[7/7/02 21:53:22] nanflan2:
Do you pretreat the interfacings you use? Most sewing instructors advise
to prewash the fusible knits, and I was wondering what you do.
[7/7/02 21:53:22] Ann2: This
stuff was knit tricot, after your course it is all I buy!
[7/7/02 21:53:31] Carol: I've
had great success with the fusible interfacing that I've received from
Peggy. It's such a nice quality and lightweight that it makess the jacket
or whatever turn out great.
[7/7/02 21:53:44] pegsagers:
You cannot tell by touching the interfacing, that's why I say take notes
as to where you bought what and once you find something you like, stick
with it.
[7/7/02 21:53:19] mudcat2:
Are there any good quality fusible interfacings from natural fibers (I
don't wear synthetics)
[7/7/02 21:54:21] pegsagers:
no, the natural fibers would drive the cost up too much
[7/7/02 21:54:56] pegsagers:
I would pretreat and get the interfacing wet to allow it to shink up just
a little, then it should be ready
[7/7/02 21:55:43] pegsagers:
If you have not used the fusible knit tricot, do so, it is wonderful.
[7/7/02 21:56:31] pegsagers:
It prevents a lot of other problems, but I don't fuse every garment by
any means, only if it had one of the three reasons I mentioned
[7/7/02 21:56:37] Carrie2:
Peggy, when would you underline, and when would you fuse?
[7/7/02 21:55:40] AmandaL:
Peggy, do you then wash or dry clean these fused garments?
[7/7/02 21:56:53] pegsagers:
YOu can wash or dry clean the garment, it makes no difference
[7/7/02 21:57:09] mudcat2:
would you use the fusible knit tricot in a mans casual shirt?
[7/7/02 21:57:18] mudcat2:
..for the collar...
[7/7/02 21:57:25] nanflan2:
I will have to try another source for the fusible knit interfacing, generally,
I have not been happy, especially on rayons and cottons.
[7/7/02 21:56:34] Deepika:
Peggy I will have to try this. Can it be used in place of any interfacing?
waistbands, collars, front bands of shirts?
[7/7/02 21:58:48] pegsagers:
yes, it can be used anywhere. I once sat next to the VP of Haggar slacks
on the airplane going home after a market and I asked him what they used
on their waistbands? He said Pellon, when I asked him why Pellon, he replied,
that we only want the pant to last 60 washings and pellon wears out after
that
[7/7/02 21:59:35] pegsagers:
I never use a sewn in underlining, I only use the fusilbe.
[7/7/02 22:00:11] pegsagers:
depending on the fabric in a men's shirt, would tell me I need to fuse.
A more durable cotton, I would not.
[7/7/02 21:58:58] Ann2: Peggy,
if ypu need a little more stability, can you use more than one layer of
tricot? Basically, will it fuse to itself?
[7/7/02 22:01:10] pegsagers:
do not use more than one layer of fusible, if you feel you need more than
one layer, just for me, use just one this time and I think you will be
really pleased. Garments are soft today
[7/7/02 22:00:43] mudcat2:
but a rayon batick, maybe would need it
[7/7/02 22:01:57] pegsagers:
a rayon batik that I were making a jacket, but not for a blouse
[7/7/02 22:00:51] Susan: Which
tool is better for applying: Conventional steam iron or steam press?
[7/7/02 22:02:19] pegsagers:
The more steam the better. Low temp fusibles are the best
[7/7/02 22:02:41] pegsagers:
The steam press is just faster, but not bettter
[7/7/02 22:04:15] pegsagers:
I went to a seminar and they had 25 interfacings and all there uses. What
a joke
[7/7/02 22:04:48] pegsagers:
That's is like saying you need 15 spoons to make a cake
[7/7/02 22:05:11] pegsagers:
bad example , but you know what i am saying
[7/7/02 22:05:59] pegsagers:
any other specific questions?
[7/7/02 22:06:22] Carrie2:
Any others we should know about?
[7/7/02 22:06:25] Deepika:
25 interfacings???
[7/7/02 22:06:13] Carrie2:
You talked about your tie interfacing for sleeves last time.
[7/7/02 22:06:54] pegsagers:
the tie interfacing is not a fusilbe, but is used to set in the sleeve
cap
[7/7/02 22:07:14] pegsagers:
it is cut on the bias and basted in to form the sleeve cap
[7/7/02 22:07:15] Deepika:
one question Peggy. I am planning to make myself a pair of capris from
pure silk... what would you recommend? lining, underlining or fusing the
entire pant insides?
[7/7/02 22:09:50] pegsagers:
depends on the weave of the silk that you make the capris from, but I
would just rely on the silk, It is generally strong fabric and holds up
very well. If you think it might stretch, then fuse, it you want the inside
to look pretty , then line, but that is totally up to you. I am into speed.
[7/7/02 22:06:59] nanflan2:
Can we get back to waistbands? What do you recommend, assuming the fit
is correct.
[7/7/02 22:08:12] pegsagers:
I don't put any interfacing in the waistband, it already is two layers,
why would you need more?
[7/7/02 22:09:53] nanflan2:
Well, the best success I've had is actually a narrow waistband without
trimming the seam allowances. So I guess I had 4 layers on that one.
[7/7/02 22:07:48] Susan: Every
use stitching along with fusibles to shape lapels and collar?. I have
seen this recommended, but never tried it.
[7/7/02 22:11:18] pegsagers:
I would leave the shaping of the lapel and collars up to the pattern.
That where it should be done, not in the sewing. But then I am apatternmaker
from way back. I go into coronaries, when I see the sewing machine doing
things the pattern maker should be doing
[7/7/02 22:11:23] Deepika:
Thanks Peggy for your valuable advice!
[7/7/02 22:11:36] nanflan2:
Thanks Peggy. I am looking forward to learning more when you visit Albq.
in the fall!
[7/7/02 22:12:27] pegsagers:
thanks for your questions, I do appreciate it and try this stuff and tell
your sewing friends.
[7/7/02 22:12:33] nanflan2:
Thanks to you too, Deepika.
[7/7/02 22:12:57] pegsagers:
good night
[7/7/02 22:12:57] AmandaL:
Thanks Deepika, great topic
[7/7/02 22:13:11] Deepika:
you are welcome everyone. These chats have really made a difference in
my sewing skills also.
[7/7/02 22:13:32] pegsagers:
you can always email me with questions when you go to do this stuff. Peggy@silhouettepatterns.com
[7/7/02 22:20:42] Carol: Thanks,
Peggy for your insights into making our sewing better and quicker.
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