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The Following review
taken from: Classic Blouse We see fitted and darted blouses everywhere now in ready-to-wear, but they must fit well to be comfortable.This classic blouse allows a custom fit with options for B, C, and D cups on individual front pattern pieces. I wear and sew a size 10 and was so pleased with the fit of this pattern that I have already planned to make this blouse in several fabrics. Silhouette Patterns offers a simple, but different front finish, with the facing forming the placket on the blouse front. I used press snaps instead of the traditional buttons and buttonholes. The effect was worth it. The pattern cover presents a shadow background behind the model, which takes away from the true beauty of the blouse. Because the cover blouse is white, it is difficult to see the distinctive angled pockets on the front. The back cover gives clear line drawings of the actual blouse, with a sizing chart for sizes 4-18 and 14w-28w. The yardage chart lumps all sizes into only two categories, so I suggest that you first trace or cut your tissue size and lay this on fabric to calculate actual yardage needed. All notions are listed on the back cover, along with fabric suggestions. The cover makes the claim that this pattern is uncomplicated, organized, and suited for all sewing levels--and I agree wholeheartedly. Peggy Sagers offers valuable fitting tips and adjustments, especially for correctly positioning your bust point. The 3/8" seam allowances makes for faster sewing. All of the sewing illustrations and directions are accurate and foolproof. I did notice several small omissions: no mention of how much hem turn up to use at sleeves and lower edge of blouse and no waistline marking. I also suggest the use of interfacing on the long-sleeved version's buttonhole position. The layout illustrations show cuffing only one collar on the fold, but you will need to cut two collars, as stated on the tissue pattern. Finished garment measurements would be helpful to assess the planned fit, so I flat-measured the pattern before cutting out. I did not find any of these to be a problem. What I did find was that the back neck needed to be lowered for me and that the sleeve was too narrow across the cap. A simple slash-and-tuck on the tissue pattern up to the shoulder point took care of that problem. For the back neck, I pinched out 5/8" approximately 3" below the neckline and tapered it to nothing towards the shoulders. I opted not to put the large slanted pockets on either blouse front, which would cause unneeded attention them. Sewing the optional front and back waist darts makes this blouse easier to tuck into a skirt or jeans. This is one pattern that I will use over and over in many ways, as it becomes a staple in my wardrobe. |
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The Following review
taken from: Quilted Top This short boxy top with shoulder princess seams has log-cabin squares on front and backcenter panels. While the top is shown worn with a paneled skirt, the pattern states that it is only a top pattern. The envelope back shows clear line drawings, along with notions, fabric suggestions, yardage and finished garment measurements for sizes 4-18 and 14w-28w. Selecting the proper garment size from the sizing chart confused me. Body measurements usually determine our size selection. This pattern's chart lists finished garment bust and waist measurements, so we can compare this top to other similar garments in our closet. Including both sets of information would have been helpful. I knew I had to make an adjustment, and a call to Peggy Sagers on the 800 number listed on the envelope cleared up my questions. Anyone who wears a size larger then a standard B cup will appreciate the cup sizing offered (B, C, or D). The instructions and illustrations are dear and accurate. I have successfully used the tie interfacing method for setting in many sleeves. A bias strip stretched and stitched along the ease line of the sleeve quickly draws up the sleeve cap in preparation for insertion into the bodice. This layer of interfacing stays in to soften the look of the sleeve, giving it a professional finish. The 1/4" and 3/8" seam allowances speed up sewing and are consistent with the 1/4" seaming of the decorative pieced blocks. Dealing with the narrow 1/4" seam allowance at the piped panel seams may be a challenge for some, but this piping imparts the perfect finishing touch. The diagram for the log-cabin block printed so darkly that it is difficult to see the coded letters denoting fabric color placement. Fortunately, the instructions and illustrations for log cabin piecing are foolproof. Stitching horizontal buttonholes on the mini front band would have run over onto the pieced panel. I color-blocked the center squares and used a rainbow of colored snaps for closures instead. On my second top, I cut the front and back center panels as one full piece and did meandering pin tucks with vertical buttonholes set in the center front seam along the front button tab. It fit so well, I am flatlocking a serged version with decorative threads. The design is perfect for any embellishment technique. Unlike some quilted garments, which tend to be bulky, this top is designed without the typical batting and interfacing. So this garment is not actually layered and quilted but is merely pieced. The wide facings that extend to the princess line cover up the wrong side of the pieced panels, thus eliminating the need for lining. The construction options guide you if you choose to lightly batt your top. While interfacing is an option, I suggest using it on the facings and the button tab front. I appreciate not having to extensively alter for my fuller cup size as I do on all other commercial patterns. Now that I have made several garments in the Silhouette pattern line, I can honestly say they do fit well.
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