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Welt-Strip Pockets

1. Fold each WELT POCKET STRIP (10) in half lengthwise, WRONG SIDES TOGETHER, and align RAW EDGES of STRIPS along pocket marks on RIGHT SIDE of JACKET FRONT (1), with edges butted together. STRIPS should extend 1" beyond marks on each end. Transfer marks to each welt, showing length of pocket opening.

Stich along CENTER of each WELT STRIP, starting and stopping at marks. Back stitch at start and end of stitching line. Make sure that both stitching lines are the same length, and are parallel to each other. Don't stitch across ends of pocket opening. Repeat for other side of jacket front. (Darts not shown.)

2. Cut through JACKET FRONT between WELT STRIPS, stopping 1" from ends of pocket opening. Cut out to each end of both stitching lines, creating a V of fabric at each end of cut. It's OK to cut through welt strips with V cut, but take care not to cut beyond ends of stitching.

Tuck unstitched ends of TOP WELT STRIP inside pocket opening to WRONG SIDE of JACKET FRONT and gently pull the ends of the welt to straighten it. The folded edge of the strip will now point downward.

3. On the inside of the jacket, place the POCKET PIECE (11) behind the pocket opening with the RIGHT SIDE of the pocket against the WRONG SIDE of the jacket. (SInce the pocket fabric is the same as the jacket, there's no need for a facing.) Align the top edge of the POCKET with the raw edge of the top WELT STRIP. Then, with the pocket against the bed of the machine, stitch through pocket and welt along the SAME WELT STITCH LINE as before, but this time stitch across the ENTIRE WIDTH OF THE POCKET PIECE. Be sure to keep your stitching exactly on top of the previous stitching.

Turn the pocket upward and sew the other end of the pocket to the lower welt in the same way, to create the pocket bag.

4. To close the sides of the pockets, and secure the welts, fold jacket out of the way and sew across triangles from top of pocket to bottom. Repeat on the other side of the pocket, then make the pocket on the other side of the jacket.

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Figure 1

 

Figure 2