The Following review taken from:
"The Creative Machine" Vol. X No. 4 Fall 2000
Reviewed by Rosebud Badour-Jacobs
This short boxy top with shoulder princess seams has log-cabin squares on front and backcenter panels. While the top is shown worn with a paneled skirt, the pattern states that it is only a top pattern. The envelope back shows clear line drawings, along with notions, fabric suggestions, yardage and finished garment measurements for sizes 1-4 & 5w-8w.
Selecting the proper garment size from the sizing chart confused me. Body measurements usually determine our size selection. This pattern's chart lists finished garment bust and waist measurements, so we can compare this top to other similar garments in our closet. Including both sets of information would have been helpful. I knew I had to make an adjustment, and a call to Peggy Sagers on the 800 number listed on the envelope cleared up my questions. Anyone who wears a size larger then a standard B cup will appreciate the cup sizing offered (B, C, or D).
The instructions and illustrations are dear and accurate. I have successfully used the tie interfacing method for setting in many sleeves. A bias strip stretched and stitched along the ease line of the sleeve quickly draws up the sleeve cap in preparation for insertion into the bodice. This layer of interfacing stays in to soften the look of the sleeve, giving it a professional finish. The 1/4" and 3/8" seam allowances speed up sewing and are consistent with the 1/4" seaming of the decorative pieced blocks. Dealing with the narrow 1/4" seam allowance at the piped panel seams may be a challenge for some, but this piping imparts the perfect finishing touch. The diagram for the log-cabin block printed so darkly that it is difficult to see the coded letters denoting fabric color placement. Fortunately, the instructions and illustrations for log cabin piecing are foolproof.
Stitching horizontal buttonholes on the mini front band would have run over onto the pieced panel. I color-blocked the center squares and used a rainbow of colored snaps for closures instead. On my second top, I cut the front and back center panels as one full piece and did meandering pin tucks with vertical buttonholes set in the center front seam along the front button tab. It fit so well, I am flatlocking a serged version with decorative threads. The design is perfect for any embellishment technique.
Unlike some quilted garments, which tend to be bulky, this top is designed without the typical batting and interfacing. So this garment is not actually layered and quilted but is merely pieced. The wide facings that extend to the princess line cover up the wrong side of the pieced panels, thus eliminating the need for lining. The construction options guide you if you choose to lightly batt your top. While interfacing is an option, I suggest using it on the facings and the button tab front.
I appreciate not having to extensively alter for my fuller cup size as I do on all other commercial patterns. Now that I have made several garments in the Silhouette pattern line, I can honestly say they do fit well.